Everything you need to know about building a serial and vga everything.
[ad_1]I eventually selected this one from Tattler Solutions (not affiliated) because it ships from the United States (damn you UPS, you still owe me $600 on that tariff you stiffed me on), comes in a nice self-contained case and can be USB-powered, runs up to 115200bps, and has demonstrably good VT100 terminal support. All up it cost me $86 shipped. However, it also has a big drawback: its USB controller does not support combo devices like our IBM keyboard, which he does warn you about, and believe me, I tried really hard to get that to work because I really like the keyboard. Unfortunately, it truly is (and in fairness, as described) a fundamental hardware limitation that can’t be programmed around, so that means we can’t use our nice UltraNav.
The terminal box did require some thought. On one side is the USB power connector and the DE-9 (“DB-9”) serial port, and the other the USB keyboard and VGA. I would have preferred the power cable to go there also, but since this is what we have, I decided to have the USB keyboard and VGA ports on the terminal box face down nearest the switchboxes. Using a yardstick I made sure everything was symmetric before marking their placements.
After that I attached all three boxes with Velcro tape, and connected the master USB from the keyboard and master VGA from the monitor panel to the switchboxes. Simultaneously I made sure we had enough length on the keyboard cable, and with everything connected secured the cable in the proper position with its own nut and clip. A little plastic tubule wedges into the exit hole as well. Now the power connector for the VT100 box. This will be powered directly from the USB on the power strip. I ran this cable from the power strip up along the monitor’s power input, then under the box so it would keep it in position and looped it into its jack on top. Following that we run the remaining USB and VGA cables. One set of USB and VGA cables goes to the VT100 box. The excess cable for this set is looped with a Velcro tie and then stuck onto a Velcro pad so it stays fixed, but can be removed if needed. The other set goes down the centreline with its own set of Velcro ties holding them together until they branch off. A quick power test. Finally, we’ll put hooks on top of the switchboxes and Velcro cable ties on the ends of the external USB and VGA cables so they can be looped and affixed. A Velcro pad glued to the top of the power cable with its own attachment site completes the cable management. It’s a lot of cables, but they stay in one place, and everything has one.Unfortunately, a second problem became apparent: the extra bit of height added by the Velcro meant the top of the keyboard was now contacting the screen when the unit closed.
I looked around for some Z-brackets of approximately the right height to match the keyboard and allow it to sink into the tray hole. This set of black steel ones ($9 on Amazon) were roughly correct. The keyboard front portion is elevated from the rest of the unit, so it is possible to slip the Z-brackets in back to the stepoff where the two meet and secure them there. In this position, however, the side pieces will block the keyboard, so I peeled them off. This does make the brackets extend lower than the usual bottom of the unit. To deal with that … … once the glue on the Z-brackets had hardened, I got a whole bunch of shims and bumpers out of the junk drawer, measured everything, and then installed several pieces to level off the bottom. I think I need a low-mounted crossbeam here to support the keyboard better but I’d have to fashion that out of Z-brackets of different height and smaller size. For the time being the Velcro keeps it in place well enough, it no longer hits the screen (and the unit can now close completely), and I generally use it on flat surfaces anyway. When I think I’ve got the underpieces all in permanent locations, I’ll redo it all with JBWeld since the silane goo can still give way if you bang on it enough. Proof of function: as a console for the POWER9 Raptor Blackbird, using a VGA-to-HDMI dongle on the Blackbird side. And as a serial console for an AT&T 3B2/310, which will hopefully be the subject of a future entry if I can get the kernel to come up. Folded up more flat this time, ready for the next project. A latch and a handle would also help to make this more portable, though I suspect some drilling may be required for that. I’ll look at some options. For now, this suffices.[ad_2]
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Building a serial and vga everything: Key Details Explained
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More updates on building a serial and vga everything will follow as building a serial and vga everything develops further.
More updates on building a serial and vga everything will follow as building a serial and vga everything develops further.
More updates on building a serial and vga everything will follow as building a serial and vga everything develops further.
More updates on building a serial and vga everything will follow as building a serial and vga everything develops further.
Frequently Asked Questions
A DIY serial and VGA console built from a used IBM 1U rack console bought for $120 shipped on eBay, plus a terminal emulator, to avoid dragging around CRT terminals or tying up Mac laptops.
An IBM 7316-TF3 with a 17-inch screen, manufactured from 2004 to 2014, paired with an IBM USB Travel Keyboard with UltraNav, model SK-8845RC with an extra-long cable.
The author is cheap and wants something self-contained, portable and less heavy than old CRT terminals.
Yes. Similar Dell, HP and other 1U console units can be found easily and do mostly the same job.









































